Fingerless Gloves Crochet Pattern
If you’re looking for warmer hands during these cold winter days, then this fingerless gloves crochet pattern is just for you! They work up super fast and they also make a great gift. 🙂 Last winter, my hands got so cold while I was binge crocheting! So that’s why I decided to make me some gloves!
Can I adjust the size?
These cozy gloves work up really easy and is a one size fits all. But if you’re someone with tiny hands or you want to make them into male gloves, you can readjust the size by making more rows for the ribbing cuffs. This will automatically make your gloves smaller or bigger. Just make sure to end in an uneven number of rows. It’s as easy as that!
What size yarn to use?
I used Nr 3 DK / Light worsted weight yarn, because it’s still warm enough and not too bulky. But if you prefer bulkier fingerless gloves, you can use chunky or worsted weight yarn. Just adjust your cuff size with less of the ribbing stitch and your good to go!
How long does these gloves take to make?
This pattern works up in a day! Isn’t that just awesome?! 🙂
Techniques you need to know:
You will need to know the following techniques:
- Creating a foundation chain
- Single Crochet
- Half Double Crochet
- Working in the back loop only of a stitch. (It’s super easy!)
What materials do you need?
You will need:
- One ball of DK / Light worsted weight yarn in your choice of color
- 4.5mm crochet hook
- Darning Needle
- Scissors
If you’d prefer an ad free fingerless gloves crochet pattern and want to print it out nice and neatly, you can buy it at a very low price on Etsy or Ravelry.
Happy crocheting!!
-Nadine
Fingerless Gloves Free Crochet Pattern
Pattern Level: Basic
Materials:
- One ball (100 g – approx. 233m/256 yards) of Nr 3 DK / Light worsted weight yarn – you can use any color yarn you prefer. I didn’t use the entire ball of yarn.
- Size 4.5mm Crochet Hook – the hook size makes it more flowy
- Darning Needle
- Scissors
Abbreviations:
ch (s)= chain (s)
ch-sp = chain space
Sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
st (s) = stitch
BLO = back loop only
hdc = half double crochet
Gauge:
10cm x 10cm / 4in x 4in = 16hdc x 13hdc
Notes:
- The Fingerless gloves are worked in a ribbing stitch for the wrist and half double crochet stitch for the glove.
- The ribbing for the wrist is worked in rows with 10 sts for each row and a ch1 turning chain.
- Connect each round of the glove portion with a sl st into the beginning ch1 stitch.
- Ch1 at the beginning of glove rounds, does not count as a stitch.
- Place a stitch marker in the first sts of every round when starting with the glove portion. This will help you count your stitches easier.
- Make 2 identical gloves. Both gloves are worked up the same way.
- Remember to count your stitches every row/round.
- If you want to adjust the size of the gloves, change your ribbing cuff size. But make sure to end on an uneven number of rows. Like the pattern calls for 33 rows, you can make it smaller by making less rows or bigger by making more rows for the ribbing.
- The number of stitches for each round are shown between brackets ()
- Repeat from * to * means you should repeat the pattern between the ** the number of times as called for.
Make 2 gloves
Ribbing for the cuffs:
Foundation Chain: ch11
Row 1: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, and then sc across the row, ch1, turn (10)
Row 2-33: sc in the blo (back loop only) across the row, ch1, turn (10)
*Note: This is where you can make the ribbing to fit your size. Make more rows for a bigger cuff, or less rows for a smaller cuff.
Connecting the ribbing:
Insert the hook into the opposite side of the ribbing and slip stitch to join.
Sl st in each st across. Make sure you sl sts are as even as possible. 10 sl sts will make it nice and even because your foundation row sts have 10sc.
Draw up the loop on your hook and remove your hook from the loop.
Turn your work inside out and insert your hook into the loop to start with the glove.
Glove:
Round 1: ch1, 1 hdc in each stitch of the ribbing. At the end of the round, Sl st into ch1. (33)
*Note: Try to put in 33 hdc into the top of the ribbing, (or the amount that you made to fit your wrist) as this is the amount of rows you made for the ribbing. ch1 does not count as a stitch. Place a stitch marker in the beginning ch1 and move it up to each beginning ch1 as you go.
Round 2: ch1, hdc in each of the hdc made in the previous round, sl st into beginning ch1. (33)
Round 3: ch1, hdc in each st around, sl st into beginning ch1. (33)
Round 4: ch2, *skip 1 st, hdc in the next st, ch1* repeat from * to * until the end of the round, sl st into first ch of ch2. (33)
Round 5: ch1, *1 hdc into ch1-sp, hdc into next st* repeat from * to * until the end of the round, sl st into first ch1. (33)
Round 6-7: ch1, hdc in each of the sts around, sl st into beginning ch1. (33)
Round 8: ch2, *skip 1 st, hdc in the next st, ch1* repeat from * to * until the end of the round, sl st into first ch of ch2. (33)
Round 9: ch1, *1 hdc into ch1-sp, hdc into next st* repeat from * to * until the end of the round, sl st into first ch1. (33)
Round 10: ch1, hdc in each of the sts around, sl st into beginning ch1. (33)
Make room for the thumb :):
Round 11: ch 1, hdc in each of the next 8 sts, ch4, skip 4 sts, hdc in the next st and each sts around, sl st into first ch1. (33)
Round 12: ch 1, hdc in each of the next 8 sts, 4 hdc in ch4-sp, hdc in each st around, sl st into first ch1. (33)
Round 13: ch2, *skip 1 st, hdc in the next st, ch1* repeat from * to * until the end of the round, sl st into first ch of ch2. (33)
Round 14: ch1, *1 hdc into ch1-sp, hdc into next st* repeat from * to * until the end of the round, sl st into beginning ch1. (33)
Round 15 – 18: ch1, hdc in each of the sts around, sl st into beginning ch1. (33)
Round 19 – 20: ch1, sc in each of the sts around, sl st into beginning ch1. (33)
Round 21: Sl st in each of the sts around. (Don’t ch1 in the beginning of this round) (33)
Finish off your yarn and weave in the ends.
